The Lip Balm Ingredients That Actually Work, And The Ones To Avoid

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Slathering on lip balm day after day to no avail? It turns out that not every lip product actually works to rehydrate lips, and the wrong product could even be making the problem worse. But by choosing a lip balm that contains good-for-skin ingredients (and none that aren’t), you can avoid chapped, peeling lips for good.

But first, let’s address an oft-repeated rumor. Can using lip balm actually make your lips drier?

“There’s no conclusive data that supports or disproves this theory,” said Victoria Fu, a skin care chemist and part of the duo that runs the brand Chemist Confessions. “However, your lips shouldn’t require constant lip balm 24/7, 365 days of the year. If you are experiencing chronic dryness, there may be other issues at hand and it may be time to see your derm.”

It’s also possible that an allergen in your balm is causing the symptoms of dry lips, and this won’t always appear at first use. “Repeat exposure to any ingredient can eventually lead to a new allergy, that may appear as irritation, rash or dry, cracked skin. Allergens are often fragrance or preservatives added to skin care and lip products,” said Dr. Heidi B. Prather, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology.

Lip balm ingredients to look for

In order to actually nourish lips and heal chapped skin, you need to use a lip balm with the right ingredients.

“You want a formulation that includes both humectants, which attract and absorb water, and occlusives, which seal that water into the skin — otherwise, your lips will get drier as that water evaporates away,” said Dr. Jessie Cheung, board-certified dermatologist. “Common humectants are glycerin and hyaluronic acid. Natural occlusives include plant seed oils and beeswax,” she explained.

Gloria Lu, a skin care chemist and the other half of Chemist Confessions, recommends looking for occlusives including petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter and polyisobutene (a synthetic polymer). Ceramides are also a useful addition. “These oily, waxy substances help seal moisture in and make up for the lack of natural oils of the lips,” Lu said.

And if you’ll be wearing your lip balm outside, adding SPF is key. “Our lips don’t contain melanin that helps to protect our lip area from UV damage like the rest of our skin,” Fu explained. Skipping out on SPF means exposing lips to damaging rays, which can cause peeling, burned lips, and prolong the healing time of already chapped lips.

“For SPF lip balms, it can take some trial and error. Mineral filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can leave an undesirable white film over lip skin,” Fu said. “On the other hand, lip balms that use chemical filters can sometimes leave an unpleasant aftertaste. Finding the right SPF lip balm that you use during the day can help prevent lip area aging in the long run!” she said.

Lip balm ingredients to avoid

You don’t just need to look for certain ingredients — there are a few you need to avoid, too. To make matters more complicated, not everyone will have a negative reaction to every “avoid” ingredient.

“It really depends on your particular skin type,” Lu said. “Lanolin is an occlusive ingredient derived from sheep’s wool. It’s a great ingredient that works well, however there is a subset of people who find this ingredient to be very irritating,” said explained.

“Lanolin is a common ingredient found in lip balms that can be associated with allergy, irritation and ‘drier’-appearing lips over time,” Prather added.

Balms that are minty feeling may also cause irritation, despite how cooling they might feel in the moment. “Avoid older formulations that include chemicals such as phenol, camphor and menthol, which provide a cooling, soothing sensation upon application, but can lead to potential drying and irritation,” Cheung said. Menthol is a commonly added ingredient, and while it can feel soothing, explained Lu, it can also be drying for some, especially those already prone to dry lips. Salicylic acid, sometimes added for exfoliation, should be avoided for the same reason.

The best lip balms to try

Whether you’re struggling with chapped lips now or just want to prevent them from showing up, the right lip balm can help.

Prather suggests starting by exfoliating lips with a simple sugar or salt scrub. Then, apply any one of these recommended lip balms. “Simple is best. Avoiding excess ingredients can help avoid potential irritants or allergens. I like plain Vaseline or Vanicecream Ointment; both are a minimalistic approach keeping lips hydrated,” Prather said (see both of these listed below).

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Amazon

A colorless lip balm that plumps lips while you sleep

You’ll notice a difference in how hydrated and plump your lips look just one night after applying this Revision Skincare lip balm — at least, one former HuffPost editor did. While it does have a slight sheen to it, this lip balm is colorless. The key ingredients are hyaluronic acid (which helps lips retain moisture) and THD ascorbate (a powerful antioxidant).

Promising review: “When I say I cannot live without this, it is an understatement. It will not move all day and all night, even after eating and drinking. I get so many questions and compliments on how my lips look so glossy. My lips used to crack and peel because they were so dry and ever since using this I have not had a problem. Worth every penny!” — Amanda J

Amazon

A lip balm with shea butter and SPF

Ask any dermatologist what’s most important for preserving skin and they’ll answer with three letters: SPF. If you’re forgetting to apply SPF to your lips, that stops now. This Jack Black lip balm has SPF 25, plus shea butter, which keeps lips moisturized and smooth.

Promising review: “This is my second time buying this. It took me about a year to get through a tube. I put it on at night to wear to bed. I like it because it is thick and seems to keep my lips healthy. I also like it because it’s no-nonsense. No smells or flavors. It has shea butter and SPF (not that I really need that at night). They have scented ones, but for me this one is the best.” — PJ

Amazon

A lip mask with vitamin C

Made to be applied before bedtime, this lip mask by Laneige is made with antioxidant-rich berry fruit complex, shea butter and murumuru seed extract, which is super moisturizing. The combo works to keep lips soft and smooth — no cracked lines here!

Promising review: “I have been using this lip sleeping mask for years. I try to incorporate some other ones to see if I can find a second option, but I always come back to this product. As soon as I stop using this product, my lips feel and look different. I always wake up with super hydrated and plump lips. It stays on all night and I don’t have a problem with transferring the product some other places. I love this product. Highly recommend.” — MMartinez

Amazon

A vitamin E-rich cream that reduces fine lines

For less than $10, this anti-aging lip balm from Burt’s Bees is a steal. People are obsessed with it: More than 15,000 people have bought and rated it on Amazon, giving it a collective rating of 4.5 out of 5 stars. Made with vitamin E, it helps lips maintain their natural moisture barrier, keeping them smooth with no cracked lines.

Promising review: “The first night I got this I immediately applied it. The next day my lips weren’t chapped! I was so happy. Every time I wake up, my lips are always chapped and now with this they’re not! If I’m being honest, this is probably my favorite buy from Amazon. Highly recommend.” — Maya

Amazon

A lip balm made with coconut oil and shea butter that smells like peaches

The moisturizing powers of both coconut oil and shea butter are well-known. This Yuglow lip balm combines them so you can benefit from both, as well as beeswax and jojoba oil, which also help lock in moisture. It has a nice, peachy smell too.

Promising review: “I have and always will be gatekeeping this. I know it says to wear it at night, but I wear it when I go out as well. I used to have very dry lips but after using this daily, my lips are like clouds.” — Funky monkey

Amazon

A lip-balm packed with collagen

A basic building block for skin, collagen is key for keeping skin looking youthful — and this balm is packed with it. Made with three types of collagen, it fills in lip lines and naturally plumps lips. Bonus: You can use it around your eyes too.

Promising review: “This is a lovely little product. It is a small container, but truly a little does go a long way so the container should last you a while. After the first application I already saw a subtle difference in plumpness and lines—and every time I use the product. The scent is absolutely light and lovely. Beautiful shine. And when you apply it it feels so good and smooth. I do really enjoy using this product. We’ll see at the end of the little tub if the benefits are enough to purchase again as it is a little pricey. But it’s a lovely little product that I will definitely enjoy till the end.” — MzB

Amazon

These collagen lip masks

Another collagen-rich product to consider is this pack of lip masks. Wear it for 20 minutes and, when done regularly, you’ll notice fine lines on your lips disappear.

Promising review: “This product is a miracle for dry lips. You will notice the difference the first time you use it. It’s amazing what using a product for 20 minutes for three to five days can do for your lips.” — Senija Mehmedovic

Amazon

A pink lip balm loaded with antioxidants

A lot of anti-aging lip balms are colorless, but this one by IT Cosmetics comes in four different shades of pink. Besides adding a little color, it hydrates lips thanks to its antioxidant-rich ingredients, like sweet cherry seed oil and safflower seed oil.

Promising review: “My lips are already dry, chapped and peeling. Most chapsticks just sit on top of the lips and I still peel every day. This is one of the few lip conditioning products that actually works! My lips feel hydrated and smooth for hours. It’s not sticky or thick at all. The color is more like a tint. Don’t expect it to be a long-lasting saturated color.” — Kaitlyn

Amazon

This glossy balm in different hues that doubles as an overnight lip mask

This is another product that gives lips a hint of color while it works to nourish them. Made by Julep, there are 10 different colors to choose from (including a plain gloss, if you don’t want any color at all) and the balms are made with shea butter and antioxidant-rich songyi mushroom extract peptides. Wear it during the day or at night, while you sleep.

Heads up: Amazon currently has the best deal on this, with a 20% off coupon you can clip to get a discount at checkout.

Promising review: “I wear this every night at bedtime and I love it. My lips are more moist and seem fuller after using for a month. Get it!” — Tiffany S

Amazon

A lip balm that increases collagen production in three days

Yes, this anti-aging lip balm from U Beauty is a bit pricier than the others, but it’s formulated to boost collagen production in lips after just three days of consistent use. It’s made with hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, collagen peptides and vitamin E to both plump and soften lips. Choose from between 10 different tints.

Promising review: “I used the original lip compound and wanted to try the new colors. Makes my lips extra soft, great moisturizing treatment and color just enhances the product. I would highly recommended even if the price is high.” — Audrey

Amazon

This age-repair lip treatment that’s 100% vegan

Grown Alchemist has cultivated a loyal following for their 100% plant-based products that really work. This lip repair balm is made with tri-peptides (for plumping), African butter tree extract (for moisturizing) and violet leaf extract, which is high in antioxidants.

Promising review: “This is by far the BEST lip balm I have ever used. I’ve tried so many over the years and this one is like putting silk over your lips. I have ordered this several times now and love it so much. Would highly recommend! Just wish the price was lower!” — TJC

Amazon

This lip oil full of vitamins

Made with essential oils and vitamins, this lip oil from Hourglass goes on clear and can be worn during the day or at night while you sleep. The ingredients are formulated to both moisturize lips as well as reduce the appearance of lip wrinkles.

Promising review: “Works as an exfoliating agent and makes my lips softer, smoother looking and naturally pinker (youthful). I will be purchasing again!” — Kristi Jones



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